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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Several Solara Questions
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

Several Solara Questions

Several Solara Questions

Postby Orefus » Thu Nov 02, 2006 3:14 pm

OK, im new to the site, however I feel very fortunate to have found it. Ive used the search feature, but it hasnt returned any solid results.

I bought a 99 solara automatic v6 over the summer to get to swimming practice, and its been good to me. I was wondering if any of you have a users manual that is accesible onlinel
Another problem i encountered was when i went to to get a oil change. The mechanic told me I needed new brakepads and rotors. I was wondering how you would check if that was correct, insuring that the mechanic just didnt want some of my quick cash.
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Re: Several Solara Questions

Postby WTF?? » Thu Nov 02, 2006 4:10 pm

Orefus wrote:I was wondering if any of you have a users manual that is accesible onlinel

eBay has them here and there for $5-10... kind of handy

Orefus wrote:Another problem i encountered was when i went to to get a oil change. The mechanic told me I needed new brakepads and rotors. I was wondering how you would check if that was correct, insuring that the mechanic just didnt want some of my quick cash.

You can either take off the wheels yourself and inspect the pads yourself or if you dont have the tools or not mechanically inclined, maybe bring it to another shop and see if they say the same thing...

Are there any bad braking symptoms you are facing, ie brakes squeeling while applying the brakes, steering wheel vibrating while apply brakes, a pulsating squeel while driving at slow speeds, etc.....

depending on how many miles you have on the current pads (you might not know since you just bought the car over the summer), your chances of rotors being replaced are next to nothing... if it needs to be replaced that means that it was soooo bad that you cant even resurface them... Ask the mechanics if theres a chance if you can resurface them to save some cash... brake pads wearing down is a possible chance... ask how much percentage of the pads is left... if its less than 20% then replace the pads

good luck
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Postby JAYDEE23 » Thu Nov 02, 2006 5:03 pm

rotors are the more expensive and easy change for the mechanic since you prolly need pads (hopefully he is not that dishonest)

for rotors just look in there at the rotor when it is bright..should be a smooth surface. you can feel it (when its cool) and it should be ... ya ...smooth
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Postby Orefus » Thu Nov 02, 2006 7:33 pm

perfectly smooth? because mine has some scratches on it and rust on the sides not on the sides that the caliper touches however, the ones at the very very top, the side of the cylinder. Also, if you stack 2 nickels on my rotor, thats how much break pad i have left.
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Postby Sparticus » Fri Nov 03, 2006 5:23 am

rust is normal on the non-zinc plated rotors (stock rotors). Sounds like you could use some new pads. The only way you would need new rotors is if it is warped or grooved beyond repair, or if the mechanic used a micrometer to check the thickness or the rotor. If the rotor is thinner than the "safe specs" then he would recommend that you need new rotors.
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Postby shocar4 » Fri Nov 03, 2006 7:49 am

i have a owners manual for a 99 that you can have for $10 shipped...
99DWP SC 4psi, TRD shortshifter, 305 RC's, Jim's fuel, iK22, 190lph walbro, ssfc, 170 thermo, greddy catback!(SOLD)
99DWP SC 4psi, Injen CAI, TRD exhaust, TRD shortshifter, Jim's Fuel, Magnecore wires, NGK Iridium IX!(SOLD)
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