lowering

by **xh0rnsb0yx** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 11:00 pm

yeah so if i lowered..which i might do with the eibach pro kit..
do you need a camber kit? sorry if this is dumb

by **bassthrive** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 11:06 pm

search.

To answer your question, maybe, but probably not, especially with the mild drop of the eibach. Get an alignment (required) right after and find out.

In addition, you may want to replace the stock struts at the same time. Search for more info, but the short answer is that oem struts arent designed to operate under lowered conditions and will wear out faster than normal. The labor to change springs is 99% the same as changing struts so get it all done at once and save money in the long run. Tokico is a popular strut brand among us members that are closer to the pavement.

by **xh0rnsb0yx** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 11:37 pm

yeah i was planning on on buying the lowering springs...then saving some money and buying the shocks/struts...

since me and a couple of friends are doing the switch it shouldnt cost to much

btw...anyone ever done it by themself..is it hard?

by **un0john0fodg** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 12:25 am

Me and a friend of mine just did mine last week tokico/teins. Took about 5 hours.

by **ThatVietGuy** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 2:15 am

Only hard if you don't know what the hell you're doing.

by **GooseXRS** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 2:37 am

ThatVietGuy wrote:Only hard if you don't know what the hell you're doing.

Or if the $hit is stuck and you have no breaker bar and no liquid wrench and the tools you are using of your friends (because yours were jacked by your dad because they were better than his and you used his for 10 years before you got your own) are cheap @$$ big lots brand so they break every 20 seconds so you have to go buy new craftsman or snap on ones to get the job done. Then it takes 3 days. LOL
Just my personal experience.
Still I say it was totally worth it.

by **jon015** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 2:56 am

IN case you want some springs, i have a set of eibachs for sale in the for sale section.

http://user.mc.net/~brad · by **jazzlara** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 9:34 am

i did. the inside of my tires wore out quicker than ever, wasting perfectly good tires. after the adjustment, tire wear is back to normal

by **xh0rnsb0yx** » Mon Dec 25, 2006 8:04 pm

okay bringing back an old thread..sorta..but im going to buy the eibach springs and tokico struts..i think its going to be around 650 for all of it..

anyway whats this i hear about having to take the back seats out to get to the rear struts? If this is the case i might just do the front ones and let the shop do the rear ones..maybe that will save some money..hopefully..

by **Mr_Chunks** » Mon Dec 25, 2006 8:23 pm

shops will charge you between 250 and 500 to switch all 4
most of the money is because if the rears
you have to flip down yuor back seat, remove the plastic surround behind it and then take off your decklid. It sounds hard but if you read a tutorial or have someone help you whose done it before it should be a piece of cake.
BTW I went with tein s tech + KYB GR2 all around and I got rubbing in the back ( dunno if that helped any with ur spring/strut selection ), but it was because im running 18x7.5 on a 38mm offset ( sits out wide and hits fender ). A fender shave took care of the problem tho.

by **xh0rnsb0yx** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:33 am

i think there was a tutorial on how to do the back springs so ill probably print that out to help us out...but i dont have aftermarket wheels so i think i should be alright with the drop for now..

by **crispone** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:43 am

GooseXRS wrote:
ThatVietGuy wrote:Only hard if you don't know what the hell you're doing.

Or if the $hit is stuck and you have no breaker bar and no liquid wrench and the tools you are using of your friends (because yours were jacked by your dad because they were better than his and you used his for 10 years before you got your own) are cheap @$$ big lots brand so they break every 20 seconds so you have to go buy new craftsman or snap on ones to get the job done. Then it takes 3 days. LOL
Just my personal experience.
Still I say it was totally worth it.

Waaaahhhhhh ha ha ha ha!!!

I've done it THAT way before too, Goose! (Your AGE ago..... Bwaaaaahhhh ha ha ha!!!)

-crisp :evilbat:

by **xh0rnsb0yx** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 12:16 pm

anyone bought springs and struts off of shox.com???

if so are they reliable?

by **---CAMRAZY---** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 1:23 pm

Mr_Chunks wrote:shops will charge you between 250 and 500 to switch all 4
most of the money is because if the rears
you have to flip down yuor back seat, remove the plastic surround behind it and then take off your decklid. It sounds hard but if you read a tutorial or have someone help you whose done it before it should be a piece of cake.
BTW I went with tein s tech + KYB GR2 all around and I got rubbing in the back ( dunno if that helped any with ur spring/strut selection ), but it was because im running 18x7.5 on a 38mm offset ( sits out wide and hits fender ). A fender shave took care of the problem tho.

That's funny you write that because I asked you to take the rear out and you could not even undo a screw...... LOL!!

by **xh0rnsb0yx** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 3:06 pm

okay so ive been told that i need to change a number of other little things to drop my car other than the struts and lowering springs..is that true??

or is it just the struts and lowering springs that i need to purchase in order to lower my car (besides the alignment afterward)?

thanks for the help..and my struts came in yesterday!

lowering

lowering

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