RPM problems.....again

[Akfahad]

Ever since I had my supercharger oil changed, crap's been happening. I'm taking the car into the dealer to have them look at the radiator fans, another story, but my RPM's are rediculous. The engine has a hard time staying engaged when I take it out of gear. If I'm coming up to a red light and I'm in 4th, let's say, and put it in nuetral to coast to the light, the RPM's won't recover as the engine spools down and I'll have to re-start the car while it's coasting. My fix for that is just down shifting, but at the light as I'm in first, sometimes it'll just shut off. I already had the TPS replaced as my RPMs oscilated, but I'm thinking possibly the PCV valve. Any ideas?

Oh, I should probably throw in there that I still have the straight pipe on and when the car throws the code for the rear 02 sensor, the problem seems to go away. Back pressure issue?

[Eye8Pussies]

it sounds as though the engine idle isn't able to keep up with the parasitic drain of the blower since they changed the oil...did they put in synthetic? because otherwise, nothing should have changed. or I would also check your pulleys to make sure the bearings are okay and not semi-seized and putting more strain on the engine.


when the 02 sensor is going nuts, the car is then usually put into safemode- timing is pulled and fuel is dumped. this can do a lot of things, and possibly raise your idle just enough to keep the car alive and for the iac to maintain idle.

as well, does this always happen, or only when the car is hot/warm?

you can always do the temporary fix and just change the base idle

that's what I had to do with my engine because hte gen3 ecu can't compensate for the parasitic drain of the supercharger like the gen4 camrys do

[Sentinel]

I can't seem to find my Haynes manual to find out what the 'lara has... but many FI cars have an idle servo that controls the idle airflow so you get constant idle speed with auto tranny in drive as opposed to neutral, A/C on etc... (the system should be essentially the same with your manual trans) This is where I would start looking

If your blower was THAT hard to turn I woud expect that your starter would have a hard time cranking fast enough to start the engine (and would burn up pretty fast), although it woudn't hurt to check.

If it happened when they changed your S/C oil, I'd look if there is anything dumb loose near the oil fill and drain. It could be something simple like a vacuum line loose/disconnected.

[Akfahad]

I've checked all the lines....they kinda just threw them back on, so I went back and re-arranged them so it looks a little neater, but I KNOW I put them back in the right spots.

Don't think the pulleys/bearings are messed up, the starter has no problem doing it's job.

Weather has no effect. Again, it only seems to happen when the check engine light is out and it goes away when it's on. That does make sense though about the "safe mode" Eye8Pussies, but I didn't think the ECU automatically did that just for an 02 sensor.

And yes, they did put in synthetic.

[Eye8Pussies]

I'd clean the iac valve first, as that's what controls the idle air flow when the throttle is off. for the gen4 camry and gen 1 solara, the idle-up for the a/c is computer controlled, unlike the gen3 which is an actual vacuum actuator that is opened up

and the bearings should be fine if they make no noises and starting is no harder


and an 02 sensor cel would put the car into safe mode, as the ecu then does not know if the car is running lean or rich, and will dump fuel and pull timing just to be on the safe side

[Akfahad]

FYI, RPM problems were due to the IAC valve.

[Eye8Pussies]

bingo

[Akfahad]

^^^thanks for the help bro...