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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Solaras with SAFC I/II/Neo, SS, or any other fuel/air mgt.
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

Road tune, dyno tune, or both?

Road tune only
1
9%
Dyno tune only
6
55%
Both you idiot!
4
36%
 
Total votes : 11

Solaras with SAFC I/II/Neo, SS, or any other fuel/air mgt.

Solaras with SAFC I/II/Neo, SS, or any other fuel/air mgt.

Postby SpikedMantis » Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:27 am

I'm new at this, so I want to see what other people have done. I'm slowly teaching myself how to road tune my SAFC II right now.
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Postby QuickSEV6 » Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:31 am

Road tune? That doesn't sound like a good idea.

I strongly suggest you get a proffesional to dynotune your S-AFC II.
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Postby woa_its_j3ff » Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:41 am

road tune? wtf is road tune? since i dont know what that is, ill go with the dyno tune man. get it done professionally :thumbsup:
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Postby crispone » Wed Mar 28, 2007 12:06 pm

woa_its_j3ff wrote:road tune? wtf is road tune? since i dont know what that is, ill go with the dyno tune man. get it done professionally :thumbsup:



Road-Tuning requires EXTRA blinker fluid in your wiper reservoir... or you can STARVE the master cylinder on the inverted NARP monitor housing.


On a SERIOUS note, ROAD tuning is "seat-of-the-pants" tuning, or can ALSO be G-TECH (accelerometer) and/or A/F ratio monitor (possibly EGT monitor) "FEEDBACK" based tuning process. (The process can ALSO involve an OBD type unit in the cabin OR a LAPTOP linked to your vehicles "vitals" that monitors various parameters from each run both AS you drive and immediately AFTER for review... mainly helpful under TIMED conditions.) As long as the A/F ratio is not WAY out of whack (so LEAN you might SIEZE something...), you can tune this way without extremely high RISK, but few are "qualified" or experienced enough to do so effectively.

I have been ROAD TUNING motorcycles with RPM/THROTTLE POSITION based map AND timing manipulation for YEARS, and on my LAST couple of tunes that were later DYNO'd, the dyno operator remarked after each pull that the "TUNING" was a perfect example of SPOT-ON tuning on a bike, and asked WHERE I had it tuned and if I had it professional/dyno tuned. :wink: ...of course, this method is VERY time consuming... and requires PATIENCE and a SENSITIVE ARSE! :o

NOTE: Motorcycles are a bit of an exception to CARS in that at HIGH SPEEDS (well into triple digits), the AIR INTAKE PRESSURIZES more than on a DYNO and your tuning can be better "taylored" to actual ROAD CONDITIONS if "tweaked" while doing "test-n-tune" or ROAD TUNING.


...other than that, go with the advice of tuning on a dyno by a professional... I'm just commenting for the sake of "clarification" as to the alternative. :D


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Postby Akfahad » Wed Mar 28, 2007 1:00 pm

recommend taking it to a professional and having it done on a computer.
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Postby DatSRBoi » Wed Mar 28, 2007 1:07 pm

Road tune takes allot of skills and other stuff to make a good tune. Ive seen people do road tunes and their cars are beast. yet they dont know what WHP they make. But who cares, They run 9s-11s in the 1/4. I call those people pros.
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Postby SpikedMantis » Wed Mar 28, 2007 3:40 pm

From my understanding, road tuning is where you measure the O2 sensor voltage - pre-cat - so you can get a good reading of what your A/F ratio is. Then you can adjust accordingly by holding the RPMs and adjusting your piggyback system. I halfway read through Gadget's manual, but lost interest since it focused on SS's system.

I think some of you may have misunderstood what I meant by road tuning. I don't mean driving and guessing.
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Postby crispone » Wed Mar 28, 2007 7:25 pm

Just another thought...


"Road Tuning" is also a product of carbureted vehicles... motorcycles for example. (Particularly those BEFORE EFI systems even existed...) In a carbureted vehicle, you MUST do some "physical" change, often involving the changing of main jets, adjustment of needles, swapping of pilots, etc... wherein a simple change of the numerical value in a grid will vary your fuel with the newer systems, as are now commonplace on cars AND motorcycles. Dyno tuning an EFI vehicle is EASY. Dyno tuning a carbureted vehicle is TEDIOUS by comparison, and often involves MULTIPLE or FREQUENT removal of carbs and/or disassembly to the point of making a "mechanical change" to the PARTS that affect the atomization at the venturi.

If you ever tuned CARBURETED vehicles using ROAD TUNING... then you would understand the "term", the tendancy (or ability), and the occassional PREFERENCE to do so with an Electronic Fuel Injected vehicle also.


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Postby Eye8Pussies » Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:19 pm

if this isn't stating the obvious...just make sure you get a wideband first...

and then street tuning is not a problem at all....just keep doing 2nd gear pulls
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Postby Akfahad » Thu Mar 29, 2007 5:31 am

^^^I thought 2nd gear pulls only aplied to automatics?
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Postby Eye8Pussies » Thu Mar 29, 2007 1:22 pm

yeah, but I didn't specify 5-speeds, because I'm not sure what their gearing is like...I'd presume 3rd gear.

and even then, for the autos, doing second gear pulls to log/tune all the way to redline will take you to 130kph as it is
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Postby crispone » Thu Mar 29, 2007 1:54 pm

Eye8Pussies wrote:yeah, but I didn't specify 5-speeds, because I'm not sure what their gearing is like...I'd presume 3rd gear.

and even then, for the autos, doing second gear pulls to log/tune all the way to redline will take you to 130kph as it is



Some systems allow "gear specific tuning"... since different gears generate different "loads"... the A/F requirements are not "linear" across all gears.


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Postby SpikedMantis » Thu Mar 29, 2007 2:54 pm

When you guys respond, can you also mention if you own or have used a piggyback system? Also mention if in the Solara or another car. I want to see if there is a variation or similarity of answers. I got most of my info from people who street tune DSM cars.
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Postby crispone » Thu Mar 29, 2007 6:42 pm

SpikedMantis wrote:When you guys respond, can you also mention if you own or have used a piggyback system? Also mention if in the Solara or another car. I want to see if there is a variation or similarity of answers. I got most of my info from people who street tune DSM cars.


- '04 Solara - Piggyback system - Dyno (pre-tuned at this point) - CP-e
- '89 Supra T. - Piggyback system - PROM tuned to requested "specs" + in-car adjustability (trim) for throttle gain, response, idle "on/off", and % over/under OEM ECU baseline (HKS)
- '94 Toy P/U - ECU chip replacement - JET - per provided "specs/mods" list
- '03 Suz GSXR1000 - piggyback - Power Commander - Road Tuned
- '01 Suz GSXR1000 - piggyback - EMS - Road & DYNO tuned
- '86 Suz GSXR1255 - carbureted - Mikuni RS flatslides - Road Tuned
- '86 Suz RG500 Gamma - carbureted - Professional Tuner built motor and tuned (Road Tuned)
- '87 Yam YSR50/YZ80 conversion - carbureted - Road Tuned

OTHERS for OTHER PARTIES:

- '01? Yam R1 1000 - carbureted - Road Tuned
- '01? Yam YZ600 - carbureted - Road Tuned
- '01 Suz GSXR1000 - Piggyback - Powercommander - Road Tuned
- '99? Kaw ZR7 - carbureted - Road Tuned
- '00? Suz Bandit 1200 - carb - Road Tuned

etc, etc...

Sorry that most are bikes... numerous other bikes...


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Postby Akfahad » Thu Mar 29, 2007 6:56 pm

99 Solara - Piggyback, SAFC 2 - dyno tuned
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