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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Ordered my rsb. What else do I need?
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

Ordered my rsb. What else do I need?

Ordered my rsb. What else do I need?

Postby TMMK Toy » Sun Oct 14, 2007 5:54 pm

Ordered my TRD rsb and what else do I need when installing it? I should get new end links from toyota right? Anything else?
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Postby ThatVietGuy » Sun Oct 14, 2007 5:58 pm

You don't need anything else besides tools.

And your current end links should be fine unless you mess up royally while installing.
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Postby CamryOnBronze » Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:02 pm

if you live in an area with snow in the winter, you will most likely need new endlinks and the nuts that go on them... mine was completely rusted out from michigan winters. Otherwise though you should be all set, everything you need is included.
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Postby Midias » Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:18 pm

2001 NY winters yup new endlinks and a cutting wheel to remove the old got mine from advance auto.
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Postby TMMK Toy » Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:22 pm

Ya we get snow and salt so why I'm gonna replace them. And are the TRD bushings pretty beefy or should I get energy ones?
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Postby Midias » Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:25 pm

TMMK Toy wrote:Ya we get snow and salt so why I'm gonna replace them. And are the TRD bushings pretty beefy or should I get energy ones?


they are fine but read this
http://www.solaraguy.org/viewtopic.php? ... ght=teflon
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Postby QuickSEV6 » Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:58 pm

I'd recommend getting a high quality synthetic grease. Many people here have had issues with squeaking. A good grease will eliminate that.
Liberally coat the inside of the bushings and you should be fine.
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Postby Ruski » Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:05 pm

^X2 mine started squeaking after 3 months
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Postby Midias » Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:11 pm

I found teflon paste or silglide to be the best
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Postby JavaJoe_2 » Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:10 pm

First try and use a rust inhibitor on the end links. I like PB Blaster. Spray them down an hour or day ahead of the installation.
As for the bushings, I used Teflon tape and a quality moly lube worked just fine.
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Postby LatinDragonXJC » Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:22 pm

And get a mechanic (or yourself) that has installed one before......

http://www.solaraguy.org/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=

My nightmare
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Postby CamryOnBronze » Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:32 pm

if you do indeed live where there is snow, PB will most likely do nothing... my swaybar, endlink, and nut were all fused as one piece :lol:
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Postby TMMK Toy » Mon Oct 15, 2007 3:14 pm

Gettin a bit nervous but oh well. Midas, you say the endlinks you got from advance were better than toyota's? Reason I ask is I was quoted 76 bucks a piece (my cost) for each end link and auto zone and pep boys had them for 20 bucks cheaper but some no name brands. Havent tried calling advance yet but just wondering what measure to take. Also, if somehow my orig. links are still in good shape then I'll just return whichever ones I get.
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Postby Midias » Mon Oct 15, 2007 3:19 pm

TMMK Toy wrote:Gettin a bit nervous but oh well. Midas, you say the endlinks you got from advance were better than toyota's? Reason I ask is I was quoted 76 bucks a piece (my cost) for each end link and auto zone and pep boys had them for 20 bucks cheaper but some no name brands. Havent tried calling advance yet but just wondering what measure to take. Also, if somehow my orig. links are still in good shape then I'll just return whichever ones I get.


read the thread I posted I said they were better because the were thicker and they are less likely to strip because
Midias wrote:Yea I actually bought better links from advance auto parts they use a 18mm hex nut behind them to tighten and loosen. It has to be a thin 18mm so I got a cheapie and ground it thinner.
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Postby bronzemaxell » Mon Oct 15, 2007 3:34 pm

TMMK Toy wrote:Gettin a bit nervous but oh well. Midas, you say the endlinks you got from advance were better than toyota's? Reason I ask is I was quoted 76 bucks a piece (my cost) for each end link and auto zone and pep boys had them for 20 bucks cheaper but some no name brands. Havent tried calling advance yet but just wondering what measure to take. Also, if somehow my orig. links are still in good shape then I'll just return whichever ones I get.


i would not buy the sway bar link until it is worn,

here is my experience
the tools you will need is 5mm hex bit, 14mm allen wrench, and maybe a 14mm socket with 1/2" drive to loose the nut initially.


i use liquid wrench from walmart,
clean the 5mm hex hole thoroughly, debris free, and make sure the 5mm hex bit goes in securely, otherwse, you will ruin it by rounding it off.

spray on it, if the nut become stuck in loose direction, don't force it loose, turn it to tighten direction a bit, spray some liquid wrench on it, then run it back and forth like 10 or 20 times until it become loose, and repeat the step when it get stuck again until it come loosely off.
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