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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Newly-installed GM sensor--PO325 CODE!!
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

Newly-installed GM sensor--PO325 CODE!!

Newly-installed GM sensor--PO325 CODE!!

Postby krook » Thu Jul 31, 2008 4:19 pm

so i just installed the GM sensors, and it's throwing the P135 code (Bank 1 Sensor 1) any way to remedy this? wtf could it be hitting? the water transfer coolant hose???
Last edited by krook on Thu Jul 31, 2008 6:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Midias » Thu Jul 31, 2008 5:07 pm

P0135 IS Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1) I would make sure you did not ht a sensor or break a connection accidentally.

I assume you are talking about the gm knock sensors.
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Postby krook » Thu Jul 31, 2008 6:16 pm

sorry, it's code P0325. you're right 135 is O2 sensor heater circuit.

but, anyone having any problems after immediate install of the GM knock sensors?? i could rev the engine in Park, no problem, but once it start driving the CEL comes on.
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Postby Midias » Sun Aug 03, 2008 7:30 am

Sounds like you have a blown sensor or bad wiring. Were the sensors used if so did you test them?
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Postby krook » Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:15 pm

Midias wrote:Sounds like you have a blown sensor or bad wiring. Were the sensors used if so did you test them?

no, they were brand new. and the harness is only one wire. i'm assuming it's just hitting something to detect "knock". i was just wondering if anyone else experienced the same thing upon the initial install of knock sensors.
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Postby hskrsolara » Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:45 am

how did this end up? you find out what happened?
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Postby krook » Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:27 pm

the wiring WAS loose. when i tugged on the connector for the sensor *pop*, came right off! i used a butt connector since i don't have a soldering iron, but for future reference however you attach these connectors: make sure you do it right THE FIRST TIME.

it's a bitch having to remove everything all over again just to find out it's a loose wire/bad connection.
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Postby hskrsolara » Mon Aug 25, 2008 6:53 pm

damn, mine are both gone, again.

hopefully they are just loose...I will take it back to the shop that did them the first time.

My AFR when I tuned was right at 12:1...it can't possibly be too lean. If it isn't the connection, what the heck could it be?
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Postby Dawgz » Mon Aug 25, 2008 7:38 pm

hskrsolara wrote:damn, mine are both gone, again.

hopefully they are just loose...I will take it back to the shop that did them the first time.

My AFR when I tuned was right at 12:1...I can't possible be too lean. If it isn't the connection, what the heck could it be?




Do u have a wideband to verify ur actually doing 12:1 or near that?
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Postby hskrsolara » Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:17 pm

No, but I should probably get one. I do have my dyno sheets that show the AFR right at 12:1. Is it possible to simulate a fake dyno sheet? I wouldn't expect that to happen, but can't rule it out.
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Postby Dawgz » Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:23 am

hskrsolara wrote:No, but I should probably get one. I do have my dyno sheets that show the AFR right at 12:1. Is it possible to simulate a fake dyno sheet? I wouldn't expect that to happen, but can't rule it out.



well, 12:1 on the dyno sheet doesnt mean anything to me since my tuner i used to go to had a 1 point error correction. He told me this and he tuned it with that error correction. So if the dyno run showed values of 12:1 on his dyno, the actual ratio is 11:1.

Ur tuner could be diffrent, and probably is...ask him if he has any error correction for his sniffer @ the tail.
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