Well, here goes nothin! Custom mount for Eye8Pussies

[panic]

Is that what it appears to be: 2 Heim joints and 2 lock nuts connected by a piece of threaded rod?

[ASG14]

Is that what it appears to be: 2 Heim joints and 2 lock nuts connected by a piece of threaded rod?

Yeah. With 2 bushings (not really able to see) ont he strut tower to reduce movement, and possible reduce a little vibration. Need to get the correct spacer washers for the other end still.

[panic]

If any other bit of the engine/transmission locating system is out, your link will only last until a Heim goes out of its designed max-align angle, then the bearing fails (and probably) the shaft shears at the lock nut. This is why the link should be as long as possible - this reduces the angle at each end for a given movement in inches.
Are these high-misalignment angle Heims made for suspension bits?
The shaft shouldn't be all-thread because it's nowhere near as strong as the Heim, and won't stand any bending at all - it breaks through the thread root. Normally the center is a tube of pretty large OD with a threaded insert to accept the end of a male Heim.

[ASG14]

I'm really confused on what that all means, lol. I'm not into engineering at all so I just make stuff how I think will work. The rod/heim is nearly a straight angle, so there should not be much of any shifting/play on the bearing. I used 8.8 hardened rod so they it can withstand a bit more then a normal steel one.

[lilm]

^^lol don't worry I'm almost always confused by panics posts lol

[ASG14]

^ LOL! He seems like he knows his crap though which is good.

So before we could test it, we notice the flippin top bracket for the dogbone had COMPLETELY split ion half, and fell off......Yeah, everyone will need ot be checking thiers. Making another post later about that.

So, tested it out today, NO engine monevement. Took it for a testdrive, I think the noise vibration in a 747 during takeoff is less! Redid the mounting (Not the mount itself), reworked the bushings integrating washers (getting Nylon ones later), and we'll test it again tomorrow to see if it got rid of most of it.

[~SolaRaSpeed~]

he's saying that because it is not solid it is more likely to break than bend and that because the helm joint is stronger, that if the mount moves too much it will just break, which is the reason why the original dogbone uses rubber and the best replacement is polyurethane. If you're breaking polyurethane then you need to upgrade the rest of your motor mounts (ie the rear mount).

hope that helps.

[panic]

In serious Hondas (nitrous etc.) etc. solid mounts also reduces half-shaft breakage by reducing the angularity of the axle during a hard shift.

[ASG14]

^ I'll get a vid later of the engine movement and rod to show you panic. funny enough, is the 1 time I drove a manual car (guy teaching me) was his Mitsu Mirage Auto-X car that had ALL solid engine mounts. Can't believe I did that.

[Eye8Pussies]

If any other bit of the engine/transmission locating system is out, your link will only last until a Heim goes out of its designed max-align angle, then the bearing fails (and probably) the shaft shears at the lock nut. This is why the link should be as long as possible - this reduces the angle at each end for a given movement in inches.
Are these high-misalignment angle Heims made for suspension bits?
The shaft shouldn't be all-thread because it's nowhere near as strong as the Heim, and won't stand any bending at all - it breaks through the thread root. Normally the center is a tube of pretty large OD with a threaded insert to accept the end of a male Heim.

that makes sense, and we have thought of that possibility. That's why we're testing the design at the moment. If needed, we have other alternatives to using the heim joint as well, especially on the outer end, which can see a lot of flex during engine movement.

In regards to the length of the shaft- quite definitely- the shorter the shaft, the less actual movement it takes to increase the angle and the stress. But that is irrelevant, as I don't see this as being an issue here, or a factor that we can manipulate, unless you can think of a way to physically move the strut mounting area backwards towards the firewall, or extend the supercharger pulley assembly forwards towards the rad support.

As for the shaft being all thread, in future designs, it could be done otherwise, but for the cost....not really practical. As it is, it's not a cheap design even though asg14 got the joints and shafts in bulk. If I were to spend the actual time on it, I would probably make a solid aluminum version of the stock dog-bone with a bit of polyurethane, or weld some sold steel together, but the welder that I have access to is back home in Toronto.

At this particular moment though, the design seems to be fairly solid once bolstered with the correct spacers washers to prevent the heim joints from working outside of their designed alignment angle. Also, from what we can see so far, there is very little engine movement, so between the reinforced other mounts, this rod, and the front rod, the stress should be fairly evenly distributed.


Also, when it comes to our half-shafts....not a problem that the e153 has. It can easily hold over 500whp before we have axle problems...Our axles are pretty damn big lol....so yah....lack of engine movement is more to help the fwd launch than for other sake

[Eye8Pussies]

he's saying that because it is not solid it is more likely to break than bend and that because the helm joint is stronger, that if the mount moves too much it will just break, which is the reason why the original dogbone uses rubber and the best replacement is polyurethane. If you're breaking polyurethane then you need to upgrade the rest of your motor mounts (ie the rear mount).

hope that helps.

no....I'm breaking polyurethane mounts because they weren't made correctly. lol. If I had the superpro mounts, I'd be fine, but I always made mine out of moldable polyurethane and never really spent enough time on them, or let them dry before re-installation, so they would then tear out.

but yes, I fully agree though...if I was still breaking them if they were otherwise made correctly, or I had superpro bushings, then the rear mount is most likely toast.

But when I pulled my engine/tranny out again several months ago after my accident, the rear mount was just fine, and I was able to spend the time to properly reinforce that one with polyurethane as well.

[JavaJoe_2]

Aren't you worried about damaging the Idler Plate?
My guess is you would elongate the hole for the dogbone.
The polyurethane is meant to give a bit.

[panic]

Yes, you'd have to move one of the studs (not the component itself) to get an improvement as to length, and with limited room there may not be much you can do.

Glad to see you researched this, and I apologize for being a bit harsh.

[ASG14]

Glad to see you researched this, and I apologize for being a bit harsh.

No problem panic, your not being harsh. Just giving more idea's to look into and such.

[Eye8Pussies]

oh, no, not at all.....all criticism is appreciated, you may have come up with something that we didn't think about yet that could cause problems.


as for moving one of the studs...that may be a possibility for an improvement in the future....very interesting idea, as it's quite doable, especially with some welding...but definitely not something that other people would do :p


and Javajoe -> that is a definite possibility as well, and it's something that we will be monitoring. But all things considering, it should be okay, as we ended up using a shorter stud, to make the lever angle of the outside of the mount less, so we'll see...