HELP!!! car alarm problems

[hskrsolara]

Alright guys, I had an amazing night. So, it's below zero with wind chill here, my car breaks down on one of the busiest streets in Lincoln, due to my red top taking a crap on me, and I'm dam sure I have frostbite on my ear.

I go to advance, where I purchased the optima 1 year ago, they give me a new battery. So, I get it all installed again and boom, fuse blows. It is a 20 amp fuse, for the radio I believe, #14 or 15, under the hood. It is right next to the theft deterrent fuse (the other of #14 or 15). I replace the fuse and boom again, it blows immediately. So, I put in a 30 amp to see if I could at least get it started, and it didn't blow but now I have nothing still.

My interior lights work, I have power, but my ignition, gauges, headlights, etc is not functional. I had to disconnect the horns, cause they were giving out a constant honk, which makes me think the factory alarm may be the culprit. I had an ungo s660 alarm w/ pager installed earlier this fall and haven't had any problems until now. I am wondering if they didn't disconnect the factory alarm before the install of the ungo. I just can not figure out why the ignition is absolutely not functional??? The car is sitting at Advance still, until I can get it figured out.

PLEASE HELP!!!

[Jetfixer]

It sounds like one of the fusible links blew. These are sections of wire that act like fuses. Do not ever replace a blown fuse with a bigger one unless you want a bigger fire to go with it.

[hskrsolara]

Yeah, i took out the fuse immediately therafter. Where are the fusable links that you are talking about?

[hskrsolara]

Well, the alarm installer, dealership, internet, etc. has been of no help so far. It's not looking too good. Someone has to have some idea of whats going on??????

[krook]

you probably have starter kill with that crap alarm. try one of your remotes to disarm the system. (taking the battery off and putting a new one on may trigger the alarm)

you also have a back-up override button installed somewhere. use it, and see if the car will start then.

**SIDENOTE: if you're gonna get an aftermarket alarm, shops normally WILL NOT remove/disengage your OEM alarm due to liability issues.

[hskrsolara]

you probably have starter kill with that crap alarm. try one of your remotes to disarm the system. (taking the battery off and putting a new one on may trigger the alarm)

you also have a back-up override button installed somewhere. use it, and see if the car will start then.

**SIDENOTE: if you're gonna get an aftermarket alarm, shops normally WILL NOT remove/disengage your OEM alarm due to liability issues.

Already tried both. Yes, I know I have starter kill, but I have bypassed and disconnected the alarm and still nothing. "Valet" switch does not have any effect either. The ungo was one of the best alarms I could get where I live, in fact it was either that or a viper. It just so happened that the shop that made my kick-a$$ sub enclosure also sells the ungo line for their alarms and remote starts. I wouldn't say it is crap by any means, it is the best security system that they make without a remote start, since I am a 5 spd. Thanks for your optimism though.

[Jetfixer]

Does the engine crank over? You need to find out exactly what all works and what all doesn't in order to help find the problem without actually seeing the car. Do you have a digital voltmeter and know how to use it? The fusible links look like regular wires but act like fuses. They are in the engine compartment. You have a main one right off the battery, but I'm guessing it's still good if you say you have lights.

[hskrsolara]

Yes I have a voltmeter, Yes I know how to use it. No, the engine does not turn over, no engagement whatsoever. The only lights I have is my dome light. When I turn on the key, nothing happens.

[Jetfixer]

The fusible link block is located on the drivers side of the engine compt right over the front wheel. Check for battery voltage on terminal A and C. If it's not there then the main fusible link is blown. I believe it's a black with green wire. If battery voltage is on A and C, check for battery voltage on terminals B, F, and D. If it's not there, the fusible link labelled 100A ALT is blown. Since you say your dome light works, I think you are going to find voltage at A & C, but not on B,F,&D. If your dome light still works, then your radio, horn and hazard lights should work also. If thats the case and the 100A ALT fusible link is blown, it means you had a major short to ground somewhere in order to blow that link. You'll need to find that short before you replace the fusible link.

[krook]

you probably have starter kill with that crap alarm. try one of your remotes to disarm the system. (taking the battery off and putting a new one on may trigger the alarm)

you also have a back-up override button installed somewhere. use it, and see if the car will start then.

**SIDENOTE: if you're gonna get an aftermarket alarm, shops normally WILL NOT remove/disengage your OEM alarm due to liability issues.

Already tried both. Yes, I know I have starter kill, but I have bypassed and disconnected the alarm and still nothing. "Valet" switch does not have any effect either. The ungo was one of the best alarms I could get where I live, in fact it was either that or a viper. It just so happened that the shop that made my kick-a$$ sub enclosure also sells the ungo line for their alarms and remote starts. I wouldn't say it is crap by any means, it is the best security system that they make without a remote start, since I am a 5 spd. Thanks for your optimism though.

even if you "disconnected" the alarm, the installer may have installed a "fail-safe" starter kill. this means that even if the battery dies the car still won't start. at this point, i'd say to tow it to the dealership

[hskrsolara]

I found the problem and my car is fine now. Blew the main 100 amp fuse for the ecu. Don't have any idea how, but it did. It's all fixed now.

[hskrsolara]

Thanks for the help guys, hopefully no one ever has this problem in the future!